Behind the Seams: Inside Buck Mason’s Historic Knitting Mill and Sewing Factory

What does it take to make a t-shirt?

If you joined us last week in Mohnton, PA, you’d know the answer is: a whole lot of history, skill, and community.

We were thrilled to bring PA Fibershed members and friends inside the doors of Buck Mason’s historic knitting mill and sewing factory—a rare behind-the-scenes look at how a few of our incredible members are helping preserve and modernize domestic apparel production, right here in Pennsylvania.

Why This Tour Mattered

At PA Fibershed, we’re rebuilding a textile system that’s rooted in local landscapes, skilled labor, and regenerative practices. We host events like this to spark connections across the fiber supply chain and bring visibility to the people and processes behind our clothing.

This wasn’t just a factory tour—it was a glimpse of what’s possible when craftsmanship, sustainability, and community come together.

A Mill That’s Been Running for 150 Years

The spaces we toured have been working textile facilities for over a century and a half. Most recently owned by Stitch Fix, the buildings were purchased by Buck Mason in 2022 with a mission to revitalize U.S. manufacturing while honoring its deep roots.

It’s rare to walk into a mill that’s still doing what it was originally built for—and even rarer to do so alongside the real estate agent who helped sell the building, joining us on the tour to witness how the space is being reimagined for a new era.

From Cone to Crewneck

Our afternoon began in the knitting mill, where the smell of machine oil mixed with the hum of decades-old machinery. Sally Congdon-Martin, Buck Mason’s Senior Patternmaker and Manufacturing Technical Lead (and PA Fibershed member), introduced us to Martin Garcia, one of only two technicians who operate the mill’s vintage knitting machines.

With cones of American-grown cotton yarn spinning through a maze of narrow tubes, these machines, some over 80 years old, churned out tubular fabric with mesmerizing rhythm. Martin, passionate about keeping this knowledge alive, shared how important it is to pass these skills on to the next generation. Jennifer Frank Rhodes, PA Fibershed board secretary and textile professor at Jefferson University, chimed in with her own expertise about the machinery. The two quickly discovered a shared alma mater, now known as Jefferson University. Martin was part of the last graduating class when it was Philadelphia University, while Jennifer represented the final class when it was still Philadelphia College of Textiles & Science. This full-circle moment reminded us just how deep and interconnected our local textile roots truly are.

Their connection is at the heart of why we do what we do: bringing together people from different parts of the textile community to build lasting relationships that strengthen and sustain our regional fiber system.

The Art of Assembly

Next stop: the sewing factory, just a few blocks away.

Inside, we watched Carly McCulley, Amanda Coombes, and Sarah Maria Peralta lay out 48 layers of knit fabric, then cut pattern pieces with remarkable precision using an automated cutting machine. Even the scraps don’t go to waste, instead they’re sent to become washrags.

Upstairs, a team of talented sewers stitched each shirt into being…one seam, one hem, one collar, one tag at a time. Watching them work made one thing clear: there’s nothing simple about a t-shirt. Every single shirt carries the touch of a dozen or more hands, each skilled in a different part of the process.

Real People, Real Connections

After the tour, we gathered for some much-needed refreshments, generously donated by Dizengoff, who provided truly delicious hummus and pita (thank you!). That’s when the magic of the day really kicked in.

A shearer met a wool processor for the very first time, and within minutes, they were already sharing stories and experiences. Two former colleagues reconnected and caught up on their current work. Fiber farmers, makers, and sustainability advocates found shared values, common goals, and the spark of new possibilities.

This is what PA Fibershed is all about: not just producing things differently, but relating differently—reconnecting the threads that have unraveled in our globalized, fast-fashion world.

Why It All Matters

This tour wasn’t just about celebrating history or admiring a beautiful old building filled with fascinating machinery, it was about shaping the future.

When we understand how our clothing is made, and who makes it, we value it more. We advocate more effectively. And we begin to build systems that are just, resilient, and deeply rooted in place.

A huge thank you to Sally Congdon-Martin, Mariah Sanchez, Martin Garcia, and the entire Buck Mason team for opening their doors, sharing their work and expertise, and helping us imagine what’s possible.

Because behind every seam, there’s a story.
And PA Fibershed is here to help tell it.

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Weaving a New Narrative: 16 Key Takeaways from the 2023 Textile Exchange Conference